Sadly it was time to leave Jacky and Sylviane and head for the Perigord region in central France. We left the little village of Chery at around 12.00pm adequately provisioned with wine from Jacky’s extensive and excellent wine cellar. We were soon onto the auto route heading south. The French road system is brilliant and the extensive auto routes, which link all the major cities are a breeze, with plenty of rest spots along the way. After a about four hours driving and a couple of stops we were soon into the Dordogne area of France and the little village of Carlux about two kilometres from the beautiful Dordogne river and 15 kms from Sarlat.
Our house “Bequignol” for the next two weeks was about 500 metres and overlooking the beautiful village of Carlux.
Our house "Bequignol"
Patio
The house had all we needed and is owned by an English lady and her daughter, who, coincidentally live in the little English village of Arfriston, which we visited while we were in Sussex.
We found paradise in what is the heart of France. After a busy and exciting three months this was a time for exploring the magnificent countryside and relaxation. The Dordogne-Perigoid region has the most diverse and beguiling scenery, together with magnificent wines and food. It is dotted with elegant chateaus, tiny, ancient hamlets, Norman churches and abbeys, which merge with the tranquil countryside.
Our village
Carlux's 13th century church
It is an area which has known war and occupation. We were intrigued by the number of English and Dutch visiting and living in the Dordogne. The English attacked and occupied much of the area from the 13th century and the Dutch were great traders and they keep coming back, but now peacefully.
Each little village takes great pride in its produce and age old traditions. Country fetes are a regular occurrence. We visited a fete in the village of Salignac. Here, farmers and artisans proudly exhibit their produce and other goods. Saler cattle were a highlight of the fete we visited. These huge, docile beasts are bred for both their tender meat and quality milk. One of the bulls at the fete weighed in at 1200kg and the handler wasn’t much smaller.
Saler cattle and their handler - Salignac Fete
Crepe making - Salignac Fete
With the locals - Salignac Fete
Traditional dancing - Salignac Fete
We also visited the Sarlat markets. This ancient, walled city, with its nightly lit street gas lamps, is the major centre for the Perigiod noir region. Market day was a kaleidoscope of mouth-watering food and produce from the region. Musicians added further colour and excitement to a colourful market. We ended the day here with lunch and the obligatory wine at a great little restaurant in the walled city.
Sarlat Markets
Vegetables - Sarlat Market
Olives - Sarlet Markets
Lunch with the obligatory wine
Local Musicians
Local Musicians
Perigord is famous for its foi gras, truffles, canard (duck), walnuts, chestnuts and wine, however, we didn’t quite make the truffles at over 250 euro per kilo. We thought that the French summer had passed us by as it was cold and wet for the first week in Carlux, however, that didn’t deter us from enjoying the villages and countryside during the day and then sitting by an open log fire in the evening and enjoying a glass or two of the local red wine.
Where did summer go
We would walk to the local boulangerie in the morning and, as all good French do, buy our baguettes and croissants. Later, it would be a visit to the Boucherie for a cut of porc or boeuf. If the butcher wasn’t in his shop we would be sure to find him in the Tabac, sipping happily on a glass of Pastis. No one was in a hurry and the butcher would interrupt serving to go outside and chat with a local while his customers waited patiently for him to return and continue another animated discussion. It seems the rural French have managed to find the elixir of the good life, that is, no rushing, good food, wine and company and everything can wait.
The local Boucherie
On Phil’s birthday we spent the afternoon in what has been classified as France’s third most visited village, La Roque Gageac. This is a medieval village set into the cliff face and fronts the Dordogne River. We took a boat ride down the river in a Le Gabares. The hour long trip took in magnificent views of four castles, bird life and ancient, pristine forests. That evening we celebrated his birthday at an exquisite little restaurant, Hostellerie de Bequignolles, about three hundred metres from our cottage. Our host was a very elegant French woman who, apart from ensuring our food and wine was perfect, provided a homemade walnut cake for the birthday boy.
Birthday dinner
La Roque Gageac
Scenery from the Dordogne River
On the Dordogne River
Le Gabares
During our second week, the weather changed to clear sunny days. The deer would visit us early in the morning and at dusk. We explored further afield and hired two bikes, riding 30 km from Calux to the Sarlat along an old railway line, which is now a bike track. This track took us through ancient villages, mystical forests and along the pristine Dordogne River. The warm weather brought out the hikers and canoeists. We walked to the beautiful Jardins de Cadiot which is about 4 km from the village of Carlux. What a magical place. There are ten gardens of different themes covering two hectares with over a 1000 varieties of plants.
Bike ride - Old railway tunnel
Bike ride
Along the bike path
Le Jardin de Cadiot
On our last night we returned to the Hostellerie de Bequignolles restaurant with some French friends and their two daughters; another memorable night.
Dinner on our last evening
The next morning we had breakfast overlooking the village. It was a perfect day and we sadly bid au revoir to the Perigord and headed back to Blois in the Loire Valley.
Breakfast on the deck on our last morning
