Rome

Piazza Republica

Alter of the People and Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

Arrived in the Eternal City on the train from Florence around 2.30 pm on Friday, 20^th May.  We thought “another trek across cobbled streets like medieval pilgrims to our final destination”, the Hotel Patria.  However, with expert navigation from Kent and his trusty iPad (no compass and map for this lad), we were able to find our hotel in the blink of an eye and our forward scout had us there in 10 minutes from the Termini Station.  The hotel was small but comfortable.  While the men had a rest after this onerous journey without liquid refreshment to wash the dust from their parched throats, Janelle and I headed off to explore the around the hotel. We were very close to the Piazza della Republica and the San Carlo Quattro Fontane and Via Nazionale, which lead direct to the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (which we visited some days later).

An early dinner on our first night at a fabulous little restaurant, the Cotto.  Beautiful fresh and cheap Italian food and happy hours every night and very friendly staff.  This place became our headquarters.  Our dinner was followed by a “Rome by Night” tour. We were picked up at our hotel around 7.30 pm and the tour started at 8pm.  Rome looks even more beautiful at night with all the historic buildings and Roman ruins illuminated.  We visited the Trevi Fountain, Piazza Novona, Colosseum, St Peters Basilica, Spanish Steps and lots more. My memory fails me.

Trevi Fountain

Trevi Fountain

The next morning we had organised a tour of the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel and Saint Peters.  However, St Peters was in use by the Pope, so we missed out on this day, but were able to visit the next day.  The Vatican is breathtaking and we felt like honoured pilgrims to be walking in the steps of the Saints.  Phil was worried that the place might burst into flames as he hasn’t been to confession since his first one.  Our guide, Sylvia, who is an archaeologist, was fantastic and very passionate about her job as a guide and Rome. 

Inside the Vatican Museum

Inside the Vatican

The next day we visited the Colosseum and the Roman Forum with our guide Sylvia.  This was another highlight for us. We visited areas of the Colosseum which are generally off-limits.  To walk the same path as Julius Caesar and many other Roman emperors certainly brought home the history of this fascinating city.  After our guided tour, we wandered the streets of old Rome, soaking up the atmosphere and stopping for the occasional liquid refreshment.

In front of the Colosseum before our tour

Inside the Colosseum

Walking in Julius Caesar's footsteps

On the following day, Janelle and Kent headed off by train to Naples and one of the islands.  Phil and I had a relaxing day wandering near our hotel catching up with our washing in a great little Laundromat that had internet access and an ironing lady to give that extra sparkle to clothes, if needed.  We then visited Saint Peter’s Basilica.  Our visit here was late in the afternoon and no crowds.  What a magnificent place and mass was being said, which was open to the public.  We stood in St Peter’s square, again, taking in the history.

In St Peter's Basilica square

Our stay in Rome was much too short.  The weather was perfect, quite hot during the day.  This is a friendly happy city, with a love of life.  Great, but simple food, good wine and the Romans love to talk and chat.  Fantastic fashion shops and the Romans have a natural charm and fashion sense.  No flip flops and tank tops here.

Relaxing with a coffee after doing the laundry

Unfortunately we bid a sad arrivederci charming Rome and Italy.  We have thrown a coin in the Trevi fountain, so will be back.

Our next post will be from London.

Tuscany

We picked up the hire care in La Spezia around midday and headed off to Radda in Chianti, Tuscany with Kent behind the wheel and me navigating.  We had no problems getting out of La Spezia and onto the autostrada.  We arrived at Muricciaglia Radda in Chianti around 4pm to a warm welcome from Mimma.  “Come in, welcome, you must be in need of a glass of wine after such a long drive”.  This welcome was the start of a wonderful four days in Tuscany.  Mimma is one of the five Mammas who came to Brisbane to cook at the Executive Chef and at Redeemer College in 2010.  Check out the web site:  www.muricciaglia.com

We stayed in “Ovile” which was once an old sheep shed.  It was a very comfortable, two bedroom, two bathroom house.  The property also had a lovely swimming pool but there was no time for swimming with all the sightseeing, eating and drinking.  Also, the weather was not really hot enough.

Our cottage

The pool

Happy hour in our courtyard

The first two days we explored the local villages.  Having the hire car was great to get around.  Kent did most of the driving and did very well on the small narrow, winding roads.  Janelle and I did two half day cooking classes with the Mammas.  What an experience this was.  Of course, we started with a glass of good Chianti Reserve.  We cooked four courses in each class and the men joined us for the dinner we had cooked.  Of course there was more wine tasting to go with each course and to finish off home-made Limoncello.

In the thick of it

We all joined in an olive oil appreciation class which was very interesting and later visited the Franca’s(one of the Mammas) winery where more tasting took place.  The cooking classes and the dinners to follow were a real highlight for me. Terrific Italian hosts, wonderful food in historic and spectacular settings and great conversation.

Olive tasting appreciation with Mimma

We can now cook like real Italian Mammas

At dinner after the first cooking class

After four wonderful days under the Tuscan sun, we headed back to Florence with Phil behind the wheel to drop the hire car off and catch the train to Rome.  Great driving by Phil and navigating by Kent on the iPad,which got us into the centre of Florence without any wrong turns and no stress.

At the Florence train station we were waiting for the platform to be called for our trip to Rome.  I decided to get some paninis to eat on the train for lunch.  Left them with Phil and Janelle and headed off to the toilet. When I came back, the platform number had come up so Janelle and Phil headed to the platform. When I got there, I said to Phil “where are the paninis?”.  No-where to be found.  To cut a long story short, soon after we checked into our hotel in Rome, there was a knock on the door.  There was Kent, paninis in hand, saying “room service”.  Someone (no one owned up) had put the parcel of panninis into Kents’s carry bag.

Stuffed pears

Chicken dish coated with rosemary and garlic

On the terrace after our class with Franca and Leesa

Arrivederci until our update from Rome.

The Cinque Terre

Arrived here on Friday 12th, after an eventful train trip from Venice.  Didn’t realise we needed a reservation for EuroStar trains. Jumped on the train and then played musical chairs.  Every time we got settled someone would get on and we would be in their seats and have to move.  After about an hour we were standing in first class, except for Janelle who just managed to find the “special” seat.  The only compensation was that the little trolley lady came around with refreshments and guess what was on the trolley – spumante!  The trip then flew by and we were all happy vegemites as we staggered off the train. What a way to go for morning tea.
We transferred trains in Florence and La Spezia before arriving in the first village of Riomaggiore, where we stayed. 

Spumante for morning tea standing in first class between carriages

Phil in first class Venice to Florence

Our apartment was well situated but quite small.  It was a real effort to get to it.  Up about 40 or 50 really steep stairs (one needs to be a mountain goat).  The apartment was on three levels – a bedroom on level one and two and the kitchen on the top level with a lovely balcony.  One was exhausted just getting to the kitchen every morning.

Our village - Riomaggiore

Cornigla to Vernassa hike

Corniglia

We had beautiful weather.  On the day we arrived we explored our village of Riomaggiore.  The next day we walked (known as Lovers Walk) from Riomaggiore to Manarola.  The track from Manarola to Corniglia was closed due to a land slide so we caught the train.  We then hiked from Corniglia to Vernassa, which took us two hours and was very hard.  There were a lot of stairs and the path was very uneven.  The next day we caught the train to Monterosso (the top village) and then did the hike back to Vernassa.  This also took us two hours but was much more difficult than the previous day.  The upward climb was extremely steep and the path very narrow in places.  A few beers for the men and wine for Janelle and I at the end was well earned.  It was well worth the pain.  The views were spectacular.  I think some of the best scenery I have ever seen.

A hard hike - Monterosso to Vernassa 

On a second last night we heard an almighty crash and some thunderous expletives, we rushed to the stairs and there was Phil, flat on his back at the bottom of the stairs.  He had taken the fast way down and wasn’t a happy chappie.  Fortunately no bones broken.

On our last day we had planned to do the inland hike from Manarola to Corniglia (which takes approx. three hours) but the day started off wet so we decided not to hike as it would be very slippery under foot.  We caught the train stopping off at each village for coffee, wine, and lunch.  All in all, a good day.

Wineo'clock (happy hour) in Monterosso

We picked up the hire car in La Spezia for our drive to Tuscany (with Kent behind the wheel).  More of that in the next post.

The Cruise

The Cruise

Venice

We set off from Florence on the 8.30 am train to Venice;  a two hour journey.  We then caught a water taxi to the cruise terminal.  The cruise terminal is not an easy place to navigate around hence, we had a bit of a hassle finding where we had to be for check-in.  Finally, aboard around 1pm.  After a quick lunch we set off to St Mark’s Square where we were to pick up our walking tour of Venice and gondola ride.  What we didn’t anticipate was how long it would take on the Vaparato to get back to the square and find where we had to be,  hence we missed our tour. {:   We were lucky enough to find the area where the gondola rides went from so we had a lovely ride around the canals.  Venice was very crowded as there were at least eight cruise ships in port.  Still it is a lovely city and we all enjoyed ourselves.  Leaving Venice around 5.30 pm was spectacular.  The weather was clear with no wind.  People from the ferries were waving farewell to us.

On the Gondola - Grand Canal (in my new leather coat from Florence)

St Mark's Square as we sailed out of Venice

At bit about the ship:

The Nieuw Amsterdam is a beautiful ship and our cabin has a balcony so we have had many happy hours.  Most of the passengers are American with quite a number of Australians aboard.  The food is great and plenty of activities.  Our cabin is comfortable.  I would say the average age aboard is around 70 years so not a lot of action happening but very relaxing for us. The Americans are very conservative compared to the more relaxed Aussies.

Nieuw Amsterdam

Phil in our cabin

Split

Sailed into beautiful Split, a fine and warm day.  Spent the day wandering the streets, the local fresh food market (bought some yummy strawberries and figs) and tasted the local beer. Then walked up the hill, which overlooks Split. Had a coffee and a beer, while  enjoying the wonderful view over the harbour.  Back on board around 3pm.  Once again, our departure was enjoyed over a bottle of sparkling wine on the forward deck near our cabin (Vicki, Robyn and Ian – memories from our last cruise, our cabins are situated same distance).

Split overlooking the city and harbour

The Promenade - Split

Athens

Arrived Athens at 7 am but due to port authorities not allowing the ship to berth we didn’t disembark until 8.45 am. A mad rush into central Athens by taxi to meet up with our tour guide for a walking tour of Athens and the Acropolis; we made it.  For lovers of ancient Greek history the visit to the Acropolis was a highlight. After the tour, we found a little taverna for lunch and then had a wander through the alley ways of the Plaka (old town).  The Greeks were l very friendly and all have cousins, aunts and uncles in Australia.  They told us (tongue in cheek) there are more Greeks in Melbourne than Greece.  A taxi back to the ship in time for our formal dinner.

At the Acropolis - Athens

Istanbul

A very cold and bleak morning sailing through the Dardanels at around 7 am.  We passed Gallipoli around 8am and the ship’s information coordinator gave quite a good talk on the Australian and NZ military operation in 1915. After a relaxing morning on board, we arrived in Istanbul at 3.30 pm.  Went ashore to explore the spice market and the Grand Bazar. Very busy but lots of fun.  The aroma of the spices was wonderful.  Vicki, I got your cushion covers for you.   What a vibrant city this is.  The Turks are friendly, smiling and polite people and all call us Aussies their “brothers”.

Spice Market - Istanbul

Found a terrific restaurant that overlooked the harbour;  great food and atmosphere.

On our second day in Istanbul (which was wet and cold), we hired a taxi to visit the Blue Mosque, Haghia Sophia, the Topkapi Palace and the Cistern.  This turned out to be quite an adventure rubbing shoulders with the “carpet Mafia of Istanbul”.  A long story which will have to wait until we get home.  Would love to spend more time here.

Blue Mosque

Mykonos

A sunny, but windy morning for our visit to Mykonos. This beautiful little town surpassed all expectations.  Relaxed and friendly with plenty of jewellery shops for the ladies to go crazy.  Winding laneways, with their white painted buildings led us to numerous shops and cafes.  Lunch was a Greek salad – what else – in a great little café overlooking a perfectly blue ocean.  Found Phillipis bar and restaurant tucked away in one of the numerous laneways.  Great staff and all the food and wine is produced by the owner on the island.  Mykonos was a magical place and on the return list.

Mykonos

Phil's Restaurant

Kusadasi

Back to Turkey and the holiday city of Kusadasi.  Again, the weather was fine and sunny.  The highlight was a visit to the Roman city of Ephesus and the House of the Virgin Mary.  Very crowded at both sites, as there were about six cruise ships in the port of Kusadasi. 

Ephesus was established as a trading port and religious centre about 3,000 years ago.  It was settled by Ionians, Dorics, Greeks and Romans and is now the Aegean’s best preserved Roman city.  Walking the original marble paths, one could imagine being a Roman walking to the library or visiting the Roman baths.  The 2,000 year amphitheatre is still used for concerts and can hold over 27,000 people.  This would have been a very sophisticated and beautiful city.  We returned to Kusadasi to be assailed by jewellery sellers.  Marilyn must have looked like she had a few Euros to spare as one shop tried to sell her a diamond and sapphire bracelet for 12,000USD.  Fortunately, Marilyn had to pass on this one.  A stroll into the town and, of course, a beer or two in a friendly Turkish café. Again, the Turks always welcoming and courteous.

Library ruins - Ephesus - Greece

Santorini

Sailed into stunning Santorini on a beautiful warm morning.  A sheer cliff face to climb.  Options were donkey, cable car or leg power.  The ascent was 364 uneven  steps, so  being the donkeys we are, we opted to walk. Collapsed when we reached the top and was resusiciated  by a beer and wine.  The usual exploration of jewellery and dress shops, while the men found a convenient watering hole.  After exploring Firon, we caught the local bus to Oia.  Ever so beautiful and just like the postcards with the beautiful white buildings and blue dome roofs.  We had a lovely lunch overlooking the Aegean Sea and looking onto one of those beautiful white buildings with blue dome roof.  Stunning.  Back on board the ship around 4.30 pm.  Watched a beautiful sun set from the ship as we sailed out. 

Lunch in paradise - Santorini

Katakolon (Olympia) Greece

A relaxing morning on board ship and got off to explore Katakolon around 11am.  Janelle and Kent went to Olympia but we decided to relax in the town. Had a seafood  lunch of sardines, calamari and greek salad washed down with some good Greek beer.  The restaurant  overlooked the harbour with our ship in the background.  Had to do a bit more shopping, so bought myself another scarf. 

Lunch with our ship in the background in Katakolon

So ends our magical twelve days at sea on the Nieuw Amsterdam. We had just the best time.

Now onto the Cinque Terre (Italy).