Skagen/Healenges – 16-21 June

Today we farewelled Odense and it was off to the station for our four and half hour train trip to Frederikshavn in northern Denmark.  It was another great rail journey across gentle Danish countryside.

On the train to Frederikshavn

 We were met at the station by Hanne and Christian, who then drove us to their friend’s summer house in Albaek, about 30 km south of Skagen, the most northerly point of Denmark.  The summerhouse was located in a pine forest and, like most Danish summer houses, had everything we needed and was very cosy.  We explored the local area and went for a walk along the pristine beach.

Our little summerhouse in Albaek

Inside the main summerhouse

Sea meets sky - an artists delight

The next day, which was wet and cool we drove to Skagen, and walked 30 minutes along the beach to the most northern point in Denmark.

Appropriately enough for such a neat and ordered country, Denmark doesn't end untidily at its most northerly point, but on a neat finger of sand just a few metres wide, known as Grenen.  We stood at its tip where the waters of the Kattegat and Skagerrak clash and we were tempted to put one foot in each sea- but not too far. Bathing here is strictly forbidden because of the ferocious tidal currents and on this wild and blustery day the -angry seas collided to create mane-tossing white horses.

Grenen - tip of Denmark (Phil, Marilyn, Christian, Hanna)

Phil at the tip

The tip is the culmination of a long, curving sweep of sand at Grenen, about 3km northeast of Skagen.  In the town yachts and blue water make an irresistible postcard image, and Skagen's light comes into its own here as the earth, water and sky combine.  It is this spectacular light that has attracted painters since the late 1800’s and the town continues as a centre for artists and artisans.

The beaches here are beautiful and unspoilt with long stretches of soft sand.  The Danes are very proud of their natural environment and take great care to ensure that development is kept to a minimum.  We visited the famous Skagen art gallery/museum, which is one of the most interesting small galleries we have seen.  It has a wonderful collection of seafaring paintings and portraits.  The town is the home of the famous Skagen watches and jewellery.  This area is also a seafood heaven, so it was lunch in a typical Danish seaside tavern/restaurant and of course the obligatory Danish beer.

Keeping a watch on Skagen

On Saturday, we headed to Hanne and Christian’s village, Stodov, which is on the peninsular of Healenges, Jutland and stayed in the family summerhouse, very comfortable and cosy.  We enjoyed the daily 2km walk to Hanne and Christian’s house, their hospitality and Hanne’s wonderful meals.  We were also reunited with the family Labradors, Labby and Viva and the new canine addition, Mila. The next three days were spent walking the coastal countryside and relaxing. On Sunday we joined Hanne at the local Lutheran church for the morning service.  The church was built in the 11^th century with the tower being added in 1793.

Summerhouse - Stodov

The road to the summerhouse 

Hanne & Christian's house - Stodov

Phil, Hanna and Viva

Lutheran Church - Stodov

The afternoon before we left Stodov, Hanna took us to the lovely coastal town of Eleltoft, which is also known for its beautiful glass making.  After a stroll around the old town, a coffee and cake at one of the many coffee shops we headed back to Stodov.

Old Town - Ebeltoft

 The Northern Light Stodov - 11pm on the way back to the summerhouse

On our last day we caught the local bus into Aahus, the second largest city in Denmark and then the train to Schleswig in northern Germany.  Here we bid farvel to our Danish friends and wonderful Danish hospitality.